Plugs & Receptacles Not Working?
Here’s What You Need to Know
Winter often brings with it a surge of calls about non-working or failing receptacles. The culprit? Electric space heaters. These devices, popular for their ability to warm specific areas, can draw between 10-18 amps of current. In many homes, this heavy load exposes weaknesses in the electrical wiring, particularly when certain installation shortcuts have been taken.
The Backstab Problem
In standard homes, electrical wiring is frequently daisy-chained, meaning each receptacle is connected in series to the next. A common method of connection is through a backstab, which uses a pressure connector on the back of the receptacle. While this approach is quick and inexpensive, it has significant drawbacks:
Loose Connections Over Time:
Backstab connections can loosen as the years go by, leading to a high-resistance connection.
Heat and Damage:
High resistance generates heat, which can melt receptacles, cause fires, or result in complete connection failure.
Load Limitations:
Backstab connections are generally only allowed with #14AWG wire. Using #12AWG wire with backstab connections is typically against code unless explicitly permitted by the manufacturer.
The Superior Alternative: Side Screw and Pigtail Method
Professional electricians who prioritize safety and quality use a more robust approach: the side screw and pigtail method. Here’s how it works:
Pig Tailing: When wiring enters and leaves an electrical box, a third wire is added specifically for the device. These three wires are twisted together and secured with a wire-nut to form a solid connection.
Device Connection: The pigtail wire is then connected to the receptacle or other device. This method ensures that the current flows through the pigtail connection rather than through the device itself.
The benefits include:
Increased Durability: Pig tailing reduces stress on the device connections, ensuring a longer lifespan.
Enhanced Safety: A solid wire-nut connection minimizes the risk of loose wires, overheating, and electrical fires.
Code Compliance: The pigtail method aligns with industry best practices and meets safety standards for both #14AWG and #12AWG wiring.
What are Basic Troubleshooting Steps For Receptacles that are not working?
Before calling a professional, there are a few simple troubleshooting steps you can take if your receptacles stop working:
Check the Breaker Panel: Locate your home’s electrical panel and see if any breakers have tripped. If you find one, reset it by flipping it fully to the "off" position and then back to "on."
Inspect GFCI Outlets: Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlets often trip when they detect a fault. These outlets typically have "reset" and "test" buttons. Press the "reset" button to restore power.
Test the Device: Plug a working device, such as a lamp, into the outlet to confirm it’s not an issue with the appliance or device you’re using. If these steps don’t resolve the issue, it’s best to consult a licensed electrician to investigate further.
What to Do If Your Receptacles Stop Working
If you’ve noticed receptacles failing—especially when using high-current devices like space heaters—it’s time to take action.
Loose backstab connections could be the root cause, and ignoring the issue might lead to more significant problems, including potential fire hazards.
A licensed electrician can inspect your wiring and determine whether repairs or upgrades are necessary.
Upgrading to the side screw and pigtail method is a worthwhile investment for the safety and reliability of your home’s electrical system.
Final Thoughts
While backstab connections may seem like an efficient choice for contractors, they often fall short in durability and safety. Prioritizing proper installation techniques, such as the pigtail method, can make a world of difference in preventing receptacle failures and ensuring your home stays safe and warm this winter. If you’re experiencing issues with your plugs and receptacles, don’t wait—call a professional electrician today
